What makes something vintage?
So you found something you love at the thrift store. Congratulations! But how do you know if it’s really vintage?
For years, fashion experts and historians have had a lively debate about what makes something vintage. Some say anything 20+ years old can be classified as vintage while others state to be true vintage, you need at least 40 years from when it was originally made. Add in the fact that contemporary brands are making what’s old new again, creating more vintage-inspired clothing that appears to be vintage, and you have yourself a tricky task ahead of you.
While I am on the side of 90’s and early-Y2K apparel being vintage, finding something that is true, older vintage (70’s or earlier) just hits different. Here are some quick tips on what to look for when dating vintage clothing.
Tip #1: Check where the item was made.
More than likely, if you live in the United States and your item says “Made in the USA,” it’s at least newer vintage (the 80s/90s). Many early 90s items may have tags that read “Made in China” or other overseas countries since this is around the time when exported clothing production was becoming the norm. Additionally, check for “Made in” labels that have countries or colonies listed that no longer exist. For example, if you find something that says “Made in the British Crown Colony of Hong Kong,” you have found something from the early 1960s or even 50s.
Tip #2: If it states “Union Made,” it’s more-than-likely vintage.
Tags that proudly state something is “union made” prove that the piece you’ve found was made and supported by a clothing union, which were popular before overseas production was becoming more popular in the early 80s. These tags are typically a small square that boasts red, white, and blue lettering and a union logo.
Tip #3: Check the fabric composition.
While many modern brands are now constructing clothing with fewer blends and more 100% fabric compositions (e.g. the growing popularity of natural fibers for small brands like FLAX), it’s more likely for vintage items to not have blended fabrics. For example, fabric compositions of pure rayon, nylon, and wool tend to point to an older piece.
Tip #4: Look at the brand logo.
This tip comes with a bit of an eye for “older” typography and styles. Often, if the logo is especially expressive, loud, or just looks plain old, it’s more than likely vintage. If the brand is not one that you recognize, it’s important to do some research to learn more about the brand. It could be vintage or it could just be a small brand you don’t know! Additionally, you may find pieces with older logos of contemporary brands. This could mean the piece is vintage. For example, vintage Express pieces from the 80s and 90s will have a tag that reads “Express Campaigne Internationale.”
Tip #5: Look for a Lot # on the tag.
Back in the day, clothing that was mass-produced for a store carried lot and style numbers on its tag to help keep track of how much was being produced and where it was headed. These are typically found either above or below the size tag and the brand identification tag.
I hope these tips help you on your hunt for vintage goods! What do you look for when identifying vintage clothing? What’s your best vintage find?
Additional Sources:
Identify Vintage Apparel - Sammy D Vintage
How to tell if something is vintage - Abby on the Internet
